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Field Notes

In July of 1999 Richard Aguayo Rodriquez and Donna R. Runnalls, Director of Living Bridges, Foundation accompanied by project engineer Richard Vallenas traveled to the annex of Charcapata to witness the beginning stages of the water installations and to discuss the project with community members.

Here are Donna's notes of her experience.

Vallenas, Runnalls, & Rodriguez
at Charcapata


Riding in the back of and oil-transport truck is a standard method of travel for both men, women and children of the High Andes Cuzco District. Although I initially thought that the metal tire rim seats would be the most difficult aspect of this 15 hour ride, the constant clouds of white road dust, diesel fuel fumes and direct sun exposure gave me a full experience of the everyday challenges of this lifestyle.

As a balance to whatever might have seemed difficult, we were treated with the amazing sights of the beautiful snow-capped peaks, phenomenal starlit night skies and even to the constant reverberation of lightening glancing and flashing off the brilliant white peaks as it emanated from distant thunderstorms located in the Amazon jungle far below us.

Jumping off the truck at 2:00am we were greeted by the warm laughter of several Charcapata men and children who were standing guard to the large pile of pipes and boards delivered just the previous day from a similar truck. After a quick five hour nap we donned our backpacks and started up the mountainside towards the first of two “sky-high” mountain passes.

Our Guide

The Q’ero villagers scurried past us down the mountains towards the piles of pipes and boards which they would soon be carrying piece by piece to their village. I was fortunate enough to acquire a ride on a beautiful horse complete with an 11 year old Q’ero boy as guide.

This boy, wearing on his feet only the traditional rubber sandals of the Q’eros, guided us up and down the steep terrain’s, literally through freezing winds, snows flurries and raindrops. With his remarkable help we safely arrived at the village of Charcapata just as night fell that evening.

 

I was never so thankful as then for someplace warm to rest. The Q’eros hospitality had in my past experience been total in its offerings. Then as now, we were directed into the interior of a stone and thatch-roofed Q’eros community building. Being lighted only by the dim embers of a vicuna-dung fire we adjusted our demeanor and our eyesight to the restful environment it provided.

 

Among the inhabitants of this already full “hostel” were the team of labor supervisors from Cuzco, our project accountant and engineer as well as several “visiting” Q’eros. Thick llama skins were laid in stacks on the stone and dirt floor,an unbelievable comfort after the bed of “freezing stones” from the previous night.

Just when I couldn’t have asked for anything more, came the warm cups of fresh coca-leaf tea handed to each of us by our camp-cook followed by the plastic sack of golden sugar dumped in heaping spoonfuls, quickly reviving us from our fatigue.

After only moments of rest we were informed by the Q’eros that the community would be arriving for a “project meeting”. Richard and I hurried to confer on what points we would like to share and discuss with the Q’eros of Charcapata. The meeting was to be conducted in three languages for my benefit.

 

Richard in the Guest House

One after one the village men stooped and entered through the low door until the seams of the building were bursting with men and conversation. Being the only visible woman in this group I paused to negotiate the etiquette of stalling until several village women appeared, taking their places beside me rich with smiles and warm hand shakes.

Our engineer and cook stood to manage the translation from Quechua. Richard proceeded in Spanish as Juan Carlos, our accountant leaned towards my ear to fill in any missing pieces in English. What proceeded in this meeting continues to amaze me.

Thousands of feet in the rarest of air, in the most ancient of mountain cultures with the most diverse group of humans crossing barriers of race, gender and time we proceeded to share our hearts and hopes for this project.

The men clapped loudly and cheered as we spoke of our deep appreciation of their sharing the homes and hearth with us. The men reaffirmed their agreement to handle the project labor. The women, though coaxed to comment were only able to speak their names.

As always, the men asked me to purchase all their weavings. I understand how often this hope has been reinforced by the presence of gringos in these communities. Over and over again we have gone outside this recent tradition to tell the Q’eros that this project is meant to create equality of opportunity for all the families, not just the gain provided by sales for a few individuals. The morning would offer further hope of that “value” being affirmed through the women of Charcapata.

After,“buenas Noches”, and after the only candle was extinguished, a lulling conversation continued into the night between the nephew of Don Manuel Quispe, Q’eros Alto Mesayoq (high teacher), and Richard regarding the future of the healing traditions of Q’eros and the requirements of those who train to deliver these teachings.

I drifted to sleep with images of cold mountain lakes where mountain spirits reach forth with invisible hands to initiate the applicants towards the profoundest of mysteries.

Outside the silence of vast space and the grace of Earth receiving Its blessing no doubt continued unwitnessed by those of us who recovered in deep sleep inside the stone walls.

Shortly after dawn I awakened to fire smoke and the bubbling of our kettle of morning tea. We took advantage of our short hours in this village to climb the steep hillside to the “fuentes” or water sources for our water delivery systems.

Once outside the cloistered building, I was surrounded by the stares of women who seemed to follow me at a distance to stare and giggle at the many layers of coats and scarves I had donned against the cold morning air and also at things only they can know of. I was acutely aware of my feeling of being a strange “outsider” and hoped my camera would be less of an intrusion than I imagined.

 

Gathering Potatoes

 

Along the way I met up with three women spanning three generations. The oldest of them stooped forward onto the earth dragging a large burlap sack towards something there. I asked permission with my eyes and smile and feeling encouraged I bent over with her to collect the tinniest mounds of frozen potatoes, the only consistent food source of the Q’eros people. Together we tossed them into the worn sack.

As her talking and chatting increased I had the distinct feeling that she was gathering pieces of gold or mounds of joy. She parted as quickly as she had come when her task was completed.

 

Walking further on I joined the engineers. We surveyed the first digging of the pipe trenches and shook hands with the laborers as they started their day of work.

As we prepared to leave the village the women requested an unusual meeting. We sat, council style, while they delivered their group request for some collective way to present their weavings for sale in Cuzco. We all hoped for the future growth of our collaboration on behalf of this request.

Donna and Engineers Review the Plans

 

When we distracted the only man in the group to check the horses the women shared in a more lively way other hopes for the health of their children.

Finally, leaving the village, we rode for hours through the same high passes now sunlit for our return. To the right a now visible glacier made its gigantic presence visible to us through thin mists.

I reflected deeply on the faces of the women and children as they gathered to sit with us hours before. As an outsider, I will perhaps never know the deeper hopes of the Q’eros people. I can know, however, that building a future for the Earth which includes the voice and traditions of people like the Q’eros is essential for our understanding of how to live in balance with Nature.

 

Living Bridges Foundation is a 501(c)3 nonprofit organization. Projects are funded from grant awards and donations


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©1999-2006 Living Bridges Foundation

February 19, 2001